12 varieties of roses can be planted until October: they will endure wintering staunchly

Mostly roses are planted in spring, but there are 12 varieties of roses that can be planted until October. These beauties will steadfastly endure the winter, and next year they will delight them with abundant flowering.

Leonardo da Vinci

Leonardo da Vinci is a bushy rose up to one meter high and 40 cm wide. It is cold-hardy and easily survives winters. However, some gardeners cover it.

Loves moist, organic-rich and well-drained soil.

With all the rules of cultivation, it blooms profusely from June to October.


A hybrid tea rose that strikes with an unusual color. The petals are covered with stripes and spots of different shades. Many people compare Abracadabra with Hocus Pocus.

Experts advise planting it in a sunny place where there are no cold winds. The soil should be moist and well-drained.

It is better to cover for the winter. To do this, it is enough to cover the bush with peat about 20 cm high.


Laminuette can often be found on gardeners' plots. The rose is quite cold-hardy.

The color is delicate white-pink, petals with a red border. Blooms several times before frost.

For her, they choose illuminated places where there are no gusts of wind. However, it is not always possible to grow such a beauty because of the weak resistance to fungal diseases. Also, Laminuette does not tolerate rainfall.

William Buffin

William Baffin is a spectacular shrub with rich pink flowers, collected in numerous large clusters. This Canadian variety is distinguished by winter hardiness, disease resistance.

It is as unpretentious as possible in care, does not even require shelter for the winter, it will grow in the garden for many years.

Avila Palace

Avila Palace can withstand almost any weather. However, many gardeners advise covering it for the winter.

Well-lit places with fertile soil, protected from winds and stagnant air, are suitable. It blooms again, bright crimson buds are formed before frost.

It is better to plant Avila Palace either in the spring or in the fall.


The Canadian park rose is super winter resistant. The variety is protected from various diseases.

Another advantage of this pink beauty is the long flowering period. It starts in July and ends in September.

Spreading shrub, crown width about one and a half meters. Experts note that it is unpretentious and feels great both in a bright area and in partial shade.

All gold

All gold is a very sunny rose. The flowers are semi-double medium in size, the petals are silky and wavy. The variety is unpretentious.

It grows wonderfully in arid and cold climates, easily tolerates rain. Differs in resistance to many diseases.

Abraham Derby

Abraham Derby (English variety) has been cultivated by gardeners for many years. It is a strong, fast-growing rose that is used for vertical landscaping as a climbing rose.

Resistant to a variety of diseases, winters well. It conquers many thanks to its persistent fruity aroma with an admixture of rose oil.

Anniversary of the Prince of Monaco

The anniversary of the Prince of Monaco is distinguished by white flowers, as if trimmed with a bright crimson border. Flowers are about 10 cm in diameter, retain their shape for a long time.

It is quite resistant to both heat and cold. Rain for this variety is also not terrible.

Hibernates without shelter. It can be planted both in spring and autumn.

Snow Maiden

The Snow Maiden is an amazing shrub rose with white flowers. It perfectly tolerates any whims of the weather, is slightly affected by fungal diseases.

Winter hardiness is incredibly high, so most often the rose is left without shelter.

My Munich

My Munich conquers gardeners with warm coral pink flowers. Flowering is profuse and most often continues until frost.

The rose is unpretentious, feels great in any weather. However, it is better to make shelter for the winter.

Louise Bagnet

Louise Bagnet is a Canadian rose with gorgeous white-violet flowers. It has an incredibly pleasant aroma and sometimes grows up to 150 cm.

Highly resistant to diseases such as powdery mildew and black spot. In addition, it survives heavy and prolonged rains, and also boasts frost resistance.

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Vertical flower garden-rose garden in the garden (with photo)

In addition, they can be used to hide defects in the garden, for example, braiding a dry tree.

When organizing a vertical rose garden, it should be remembered that roses are not vines, and therefore they will not be able to curl around the fence on their own and their stems will have to be constantly guided along the support and fixed so that they hold better.

Austin bush roses

Almost any specimen of ostinka, if properly trimmed, can be formed in a bush form. Such ostinks are planted in rabatki, making out paths, they are used to decorate mixborders, emphasize the monumentality of green hedges.

All Ostinka varieties go well with foxgloves, bells, delphiniums. The color palette of English hybrids allows you to choose Ostinki for garden design in any style.

Here are descriptions of several, especially popular varieties of Ostinok.

William Morris. William Morris is the owner of dense double flowers of pink-peach shades with a bright thick aroma. The bush grows quickly, reaching 1.5 m. Flowering is continuous, long, abundant.

Golden Celebration. A tall shrub with copper-yellow cupped flowers. Buds from 8 to 14 cm, spicy aroma with fruity notes. Golden Celebration is blooming again.

James Galway. A very tall plant. The flowers are pale pink, rosette, 12-14 cm. James Galway pleases with the traditional aroma of rose oil.

The best ways to root rose cuttings: detailed instructions on propagating roses by cuttings

One of the methods of growing a rose is cuttings, and it is perhaps one of the most effective. Here, the first thing to do is to find, so to speak, a donor for the future flower. You can take cuttings from a bush already growing in the soil (a bush you like growing on the personal plot of relatives or friends), or you can try and grow a rose from a magnificent bouquet presented for your birthday.

Of course, the latter option is unlikely, but it does take place. The choice of a rose variety is of great importance for its rooting and survival rate. After all, the characteristics of varieties, resistant or unstable to certain conditions, are very different. Therefore, we advise you to turn to local varieties of roses, that is, varieties that have already proven themselves well in a given climate and weather conditions.

After you have decided on the variety and bush, you should pay attention to the stems themselves. They should be semi-freshened, not soft, but not oak either. It is these stems that will give the highest survival rate. And this is the main reason when it is not possible to grow a rose from a bouquet, because there are already ripe specimens of a flower there, which means that their stem has already become completely woody and has become insensitive.

As for foreign roses, they are 99% unsuitable for propagation, since they are treated with preservatives. But there are also such instances of bouquet roses, from which it turns out to grow a full-fledged flower, although it is best to cut the cuttings from the bush of an existing, actively growing rose.

The best period is the end of June - the beginning of July, when the rose has just faded, and its petals and leaves have already begun to fall - this material has the greatest number of chances to produce magnificent specimens. But also often cuttings are carried out in late autumn, at a time when the bush begins to prepare for winter.

In any case, the thickness of the stem for the cutting should not exceed 5 mm (you can focus on the thickness of a regular pencil), and the optimal length is 15 cm. Cutting is done with a pruner at an acute angle. The main requirement for the cutting is the presence of three buds, and the distance from the last buds to the end of the cutting should be about 5 mm, which is on one side as well as on the other. By the way, it is worthwhile to take a demanding attitude to the health of the cutting - the slightest spots, decay, etc. unacceptable, such stems are immediately discarded.

After the cuttings are received, there are several options for the development of events. But in any case, the cuttings of a rose are planted in the prepared soil, this happens either immediately after grafting, with mandatory aging in solutions with growth stimulants, or after the callus (growth) and roots are formed in the cuttings. There are a lot of methods for stimulating the formation of a root system in rose cuttings, some of them will be considered below. In general, the formation of roots takes about a month.

You can plant a rose in the ground both in autumn and spring. The stalk (with or without grown roots) is placed in the prepared soil, always at an angle of 45 degrees. Planting depth is about 3 cm, it is important that the soil covers one bud of the cuttings, and 1-2 other buds are above the ground. The stalk is carefully buried in such a way that there is no formation of air voids between it and the soil.

Then the obligatory watering of the plantings is carried out, and their shelter is the construction of mini-greenhouses. For shelter, plastic bottles are suitable, in which either the lids are opened or holes are made for the circulation of air masses. If rooting occurs in the fall, then all this is necessarily insulated from above - covered with non-woven material and left for the whole winter. And only next fall they are planted in a permanent place.

When cutting roses at home, special attention is paid to the soil where the cutting is planted, or to the substrate. The substrate is specially prepared and consists of peat, coarse river sand, fertile soil. The soil should be loose and decontaminated - using a solution of EM preparations, or with the addition of ash. You can also use store mixes, which are specially prepared for rooting a rose, taking into account its needs.

Maintaining a stable humidity and temperature stability are the main requirements for caring for cuttings. And it is also important to avoid the sun. Therefore, it is very convenient to carry out rooting in near-stem circles - we have been successfully rooting roses there for many years. After a month, the cuttings begin to harden, opening the bottles, then they are removed completely. If rooted in late autumn, then the bottles are left for the winter, and they are removed only in the spring, when it becomes noticeable that the bud has started to grow.

The use of growth stimulants for a more successful rooting of a rose in the ground

Growth stimulants are special preparations that increase the survival rate of the cuttings, promote faster formation of the root system. The use of stimulants in certain quantities is useful for cuttings for survival, but if there is an excess of these substances, then their effect on the flower will be exactly the opposite. Therefore, you must strictly follow the instructions.

Cuttings are kept in growth stimulants before being directly planted in the ground. For this, Heteroauxin, Kornerost Kornevin, succinic acid, diluted in certain proportions, are poured into a container where the cuttings are placed. They are positioned standing so that the solution covers one bud, but does not affect the foliage.

The holding time of cuttings in solutions of growth stimulants varies depending on the degree of the stem's lily. If it is softer, then 6-12 hours will be enough, but if the stem is completely gray, then the time can reach up to a day.

Another root growth stimulator is Radifarm. In addition to the fact that it contains useful trace elements in its composition, most of all it helps the rooting of the cuttings in a new place, reduces the level of stress from transplanting. In its solution (1-2 drops per liter), the cuttings are kept for only half an hour.

Also, Zircon and Epin-extra preparations have improved qualities of root formation, protection from diseases, protection from decay. As for Zircon, in its solution (about 15 drops per 1 liter of water) the lower ends of the cutting are kept for 18 hours, after which they are planted in the ground.

If the varieties of roses that are most difficult to root are bred, then the concentration of the solution is increased (up to 40 drops per 1 liter). Treatment of cuttings of roses with Epin-extra increases the rate of root formation by almost 2 times. In the prepared solution, where 5 drops of the agent are taken for half a liter of water, the cuttings are soaked for 20 hours.

As a growth stimulant, you can also use available folk remedies, such as:

  1. Fresh yeast (not dry!). They are not only growth activators, but also contain nutrients - vitamins of group B. To prepare the solution, take 250 grams of yeast per 2 liters of water, dilute well. Cuttings are placed in it for a day.
  2. Honey. It has a complex of minerals that increase the resistance of rose cuttings to diseases. In addition, it also has antiseptic properties. To prepare the solution, dilute 2 tsp of honey in water (3 l) at room temperature. Place the cuttings in this solution at one end so that the solution covers ⅓ of the entire length. In this position, the cuttings are left overnight.
  3. Willow water. This growth promoter can be prepared in a variety of ways. The first method is to place willow twigs in the water and wait until these twigs appear roots. The water in which the willow roots have formed will be an excellent growth stimulator for rose cuttings. The second method is that green and yellow, but always annual, willow shoots are finely chopped and poured with boiled water, insisted for several hours. The solution obtained by both the first and the second methods is used to treat the cuttings before planting in the ground.

Now we will consider the methods of building the root system of rose cuttings before planting in open ground.

Germinating cuttings of roses in water

When growing the roots of a rose cut in water, you should know that in this case the roots are rather weak, and for subsequent rooting in the ground, they will need additional care. But still, such a method takes place.

In this case, the prepared cuttings are arranged in a container with water, and it is necessary to ensure that the water covers about half of the cutting. Water must be pre-boiled and cooled. It can also be infused for a week on silver or zeolite by dipping a silver spoon or natural silicon into the decanter.

It is also important that it is impossible to change such water throughout the entire process - you can only add the amount that has evaporated. Before placing the cuttings in water for the formation of roots, it is imperative to treat them with any growth stimulants as described above.

For faster root formation of the cuttings, you can add aloe juice to the water. It stimulates cell division, increasing the rate of this process. And for the formation of roots, this is exactly what is required. For a large enough container of water with cuttings, you only need a couple of drops of fresh aloe juice.

It is advisable to use a container made of dark glass, as practice shows, root formation in this case occurs more intensively. By the way, it will take about 2 months to wait for the roots to appear, the greenhouse device will help speed up this process - a bag is put on the container in which the cuttings are located, tightly tied. True, for air circulation, it is imperative to make a couple of holes in it.

Rooting cuttings of roses in potatoes

This method of growing callus and roots from a rose cut is used in the spring. The potato tuber was not chosen for this by chance - it is he who creates the optimal and constant moisture regime for the cutting, so that the latter gives good roots.In addition, while the stalk is in the potato, it receives the necessary starch and carbohydrates from it, which is its additional nutrition.

In order to grow a rose from a cutting using potatoes, it is necessary to have on hand prepared cuttings (without leaves and thorns) and potato tubers with cut eyes. The tubers should be of medium size. Then you should cut out a depression and stick the stalk into the tuber so that it does not fall out. After that, we place a simple structure in a previously prepared trench. The trench should be located in a windless and shaded area of ​​the site, its depth is about 15 centimeters.

Further, sand is poured into a ⅓ trench, and already in the sand potatoes are arranged with cuttings stuck into it. The tubers are dropped into the sand by ⅔, the distance between them is at least 15 cm.But it is worth noting that in the case of such cultivation, the rose will also need additional protection - it should be covered with glass jars, which are generally not recommended to be removed within a month. Then the cuttings can be accustomed to open air, periodically ventilating and opening the jars, and after a few days - a week, the protection can be completely removed.

As for watering, despite the moisture created by the potato tuber, it must be carried out regularly. And once a week, it is advisable to do this with sweetened water - dilute 2 tsp of regular sugar in a glass.

You can also leave the stalk in the potato for a while right on the windowsill. Provided that it is not exposed to direct sunlight. In this case, the eyes do not damage, but simply place the potato in a glass or on the neck of a jar. And when the growth buds wake up, the awakened cutting is planted in the ground right with the potatoes.

How to root a rose using a bag and aloe juice

This method of growing the roots of a rose cut is quite popular. When you put the cuttings in a bag, a special, humid atmosphere is created there, with the presence of such an effect as fog in it. This atmosphere is good for callus formation.

First you need to prepare the filling for the plastic bag. This filling should be sphagnum moss, which is previously well spilled with a solution with aloe juice. To prepare the solution, take 9 parts of water (room temperature) and dissolve 1 part of fresh aloe flower juice in it. The sphagnum moss moistened with this solution is placed in a bag, then the cuttings are placed there - with one end, as if sticking them into the soil. Then the bag is tied tightly, leaving the other ends of the cutting out. After that, the package is hung on the window, subsequently the necessary atmosphere will be created there. As a rule, after a month, the appearance of roots is observed in the cuttings of the rose. After which they can already be planted in the ground.

Watch the video: How to Prepare Roses for Winter

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